Refinement and reinvention at COS this Autumn

The search for perfection is at the heart of COS this autumn/winter 2012, whether it be the perfect precision of minimal design, or the perfect colours of nature. The collection is a refinement and reinvention of the COS style, with clean and futuristic shapes, layered looks, and optimistic colours. The pleasure found in specific details, and an obsession with experimentation result in a wardrobe of covetable pieces with their own distinct personality.

Every piece has been refined or reinvented, like a woman’s coat with collarless layered lapels and a completely clean front, resulting in an almost flat effect. A tunic top is cut with a high new V which sits slightly away from the neck, creating a futuristic feel, especially when worn over a second skin roll-neck and with perfectly straight press-fold trousers the shade of blueberry milk.

The cut of a garment makes its own trends, with seams moved to the back of dresses to create a clean new feeling. The result is at one point space-age, like a simple thick wool shift the colour of acid mustard, and at other times innocent, such as a mint-green high V-neck dress of great purity.

Structure creates masculine shapes, like an updated shawl-collar woman’s blazer in winter white. Lightness makes its own structure too, as with a seamless two-layered top of organza and chiffon, which appears to float away from the body. Texture also plays a structural role, like the hairy knits found on sweaters and coats.

For men, COS brings tailoring into the 21st century, cut with clean detailing and innovative new fabrics. A concealed button peak-lapel blazer comes in a high twist wool for a formal feel, while a patch-pocket jacket in bonded wool turns a blazer into a piece of outerwear.

There’s innovation all around, whether it’s a V-neck sweater with a flannel front but different ribs on the back and sleeves, or modernist side adjusters on pleated trousers in matt high-twist wool that do away with belt loops for a clean effect.

Accessories are objects of pure design, like a leather box clutch which folds into a metal base, or a leather belt with metal side details. A woman’s slip-on flat shoe is made from one piece of leather, while for men a lace-up is placed on a flat rubber sole with a contrast welt. It’s all a result of the continuing mission to explore new styles and techniques each season, which come to form part of the ever-evolving COS aesthetic.