25 July 2013:
Referencing the cult 90s teen film “The Craft” about a group of young girls who get into witchcraft. Modernised fabrications, PU and simple style silhouettes are paired with oversized boyfriend outerwear pieces. Organic spooky woodland motifs and photographic inky florals in bruised colours. Moulded appliqué and corded trophy sweats worn with gothy maxi/midi floaty dresses help to create the high low feel for this trend. Monochrome laser cuts, micro studding and colourful embroideries are used for embellishment. The long leg jumpsuit re-surfaces and the pinny also looks set to continue in softer fabrications and prints.
A blend of “Femme Fatale” and Wes Andersons’ iconic heroines – Suzy from last year’s “Moonrise Kingdom” and of course Gwyneth as Margot in “The Royal Tenenbaums.” This colourful and playful trend has a slight retro feel but with a modern twist. Outerwear is key but there is a move away from the boyfriend crombie – patched furs, vintage inspired & contrast collars look new again. Simple mini shift dresses are worn under plasticised vinyl overcoats. This season it is all about mix and match separates. Quirky skirts (conversational & mixed media applique) worn with crop silhouettes and shorter length honeycomb knits and tailored jackets & the pencil returns! Bold intarsia motifs – the mixed yarn bear face & cute kitsch appliqué ideas for tees & sweats. Socks are worn with heavy soled platform shoes.
90s Antwerp is a trend which pays homage to the Belgian school of conceptual designers who had their heyday in the early nineties. Innovative fabrications and experimental techniques. Masters of deconstruction and an avant-garde approach, they re-invented the classics with a distinctly modern edge. The story is strongly rooted in tailored pieces, with a heavy influence of menswear staples prevalent. Tailored men’s-style trousers, crisp white poplin shirts and mix slouch overcoats are all twisted or subverted in some way. Key elements are raw or bound seams, clever folding and origami influences to create semi-sculptural shapes, asymmetry and functional fastenings such as zips, velcro and D-rings.
Interest is created with unusual fabric mixes, with texture being instrumental. Key to the look are salt and pepper tweeds, flecks and marls. These combine with lots of surface-interest fabrics with waffle weaves 'fuzzy' surfaces apparent - think angoras, mohairs, brushes, boucles and felted knitwear. Polar fleece also re-emerges.
Innovation is also brought with the continuing appeal of bonded fabrics which add to the premium feel of this trend. Vinyl, PU, glossed and coated surfaces bring contrast.
The key silhouette is oversized, mannish or cocoon-like; ovoid cuts are achieved with clever darting and domed sleeves. Jersey is twisted and draped, and layering features heavily.
Urban edge is added with biker stitch detailing, especially on PU/neoprene mixed skinnies. Bikers and blouses look newest when oversized and mixed with fabric and embossed techniques. Luxe tracksuits, comprising of the longline blouse and pant co-ord, are essential. Sportswear-inspired accessories of premium runners and rucksacks complete the look.
Prints are simple and echo the textural, grainy quality of the fabrics; featuring scratchy, etched effects and dogtooths.
The colour palette is minimal and comprises of chalk white, graphite, concrete, spruce green, sandstone and claret. Highlights are jade, steel blue, dust pink and magenta.